![]() Your blanks would be set against the fixed jaw AND against the bed of the vise or against a parallel shim resting on the bed. It would need to be set parallel to the X axis and accurately set to 45 degrees. You could use an angle vise instead of the fixture Vee block I called for. This method will leave a bit of extra metal at the apex of the vee so it also may be a good idea to either drill a lengthwise hole at that point (before milling the vee) or to use a slitting saw at 45 degrees to remove it. It may be a good idea to make rough cuts a few thousandths short of the final sides on both blanks first and then do the final, finishing cuts with the Y axis and the quill moved by those extra thousandths. And both of them should be centered in the blocks. Those two blanks should have vees cut in them with the same width and depth. ![]() With the quill and Y axis at the same settings, make two cuts on the second Vee block blank. With the quill and Y axis at the same settings, cut the second side.Ĩ. Remove the Vee block blank and reverse it.ħ. You can go a bit less than this if you want.ĥ. This places the end of the mill a little short of where the second side will be. Lower the quill by 1.4 times the desired depth of the Vee. Move the table on the Y axis toward the Vee block blank by the depth of the desired vee.Ĥ. Move the table on the X axis to place the quill off the side of the Vee block blank so you can lower the quill.ģ. Put one Vee block blank in the fixture Vee block and touch off the corner of the end mill on a scribbed center line.Ģ. ![]() Clamp it on the mill table and align it with the X axis. This fixture Vee block need not be accurate except for the 45 degree angle. Then make a 45 degree fixture with a solid stop on one side, AKA a Vee block. I would first make two Vee block blanks with the same width and height. Most Vee blocks are symmetrical so you will want the vee cuts in the center. Most sine bars are cut with rectangular cuts and the screws that hold the rounds in place are at a 45 degree angle to hold them against the "bottom" and side of those cuts. This also allows you to fiddle with the locking screws during the process since they seem to need need tweaking during tilting, unless you loosen them a lot (not recommended).įor the sine bar you don't need vees. You have to periodically smack the 2x4 with a hammer to keep the 2x4 at the correct angle to be in contact with the head. Tilting the head 45 deg on a BP by yourself is a pain I clamp an approx 18" piece of 2x4 in the vise (table/vise moved all the way to the left for ccw head tilt) at an angle such that it rests against the casting on the joint between the motor housing and casting (near the switch) after about 15 deg is reached, and use it to lower and raise the head I put a socket on the worm gear and basically use the knee to raise and lower the head, just using the wrench and worm to "keep up" with raising it by the knee. If the endmill is not large enough for the depth of the groove, index it down/over equal amounts with the knee and x to remove the "waste" at the top right side of groove.Įrrors are going to add up and compound using an endmill at 45', dunno how accurate and repeatable one could reasonable expect. A method to use a flat endmill, if something is not required to be super-accurate, but within say 0.005", layout with Dykem, mark CL of v-groove with calipers etc, tilt head (for example rotating head ccw to left), check with angle-block, retract and lock quill, align corner of cutter on scribe (using magnifying glass), turn on machine and move knee up till it just starts to cut, adjust x to scribed line while barely cutting (using magnifier) to make groove, move knee up (lock axis not in use) an appropriate cutting depth (material removal increases as the groove is made deeper). The op said "accurate" but didn't say "how accurate". ![]()
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